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"Comfort is essential, so choose fabrics like chiffon, silk or lace that feel both luxurious and breathable," Dicopoulos advises

A canny patron might equip his entire family, his friends, freedmen, even his slaves, with elegant, costly and impractical clothing, implying his entire extended family's condition as one of "honorific leisure" ( otium ), buoyed by limitless wealth

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Of course, Poiret, Patou and Molyneux may have helped popularize the style throughout the late 1920s and the 1930s, but Chanel was seen as leading the way